Deliciously Diffrent

Piali Banerjee interviews celebrity chefs Sanjeev Kapoor and Camellia Panjabi

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No doubt cooking is a science. It's just that Sanjeev Kapoor makes it look like an art. Ever since this star chef burst into the celebrity scene in Mumbai, chefdom has never been the same in his city which simply loves its food. Fusion food, exotic fare, easy-to-cook recipes. . . the buzzword is to cook like Kapoor and eat "different". As for the gourmet (and there is at least one in every household in the city), recipes coming from the treasure house of Khana Khazana are the ones to swear by.

Meanwhile Kapoor himself enjoys the pressures of being a celebrity chef in a city that really piles on the expectations on all its celebrities. People expect him to have all the answers when it comes to food, recipes, health or nutrition. And he makes sure that he does have them! How? "By constant research, travelling, reading, cooking and eating," he smiles. "Simple really. Except that it becomes an obsession after a point. Where all you're doing is thinking food. And every conversation and every meal begins to turn into a 'learning' experience!"

Little wonder that he should do his television show Khana Khazana on Zee TV completely impromptu. "I never prepare for my show," he reveals. "I've given a list of about 200 ingredients to my producer which he keeps available for every shoot. And I think up my recipes as I go along, before the camera. I have found that this is the best way to keep the show spontaneous and my adrenaline flowing even after six years of doing Khana Khazana. I like to think on my feet."

With so much thinking, creating new recipes is a cakewalk. But then, as he insists, that's not such an important part of cooking. "You can always shuffle a few ingredients and come up with new dishes," he shrugs. "What is really difficult is to make these dishes work. To tailor them to popular taste." Which is the theme of Kapoor's restaurant in Dubai - "deliciously different".

Sometimes, of course, one has to "build" popular taste too. "Not everyone can be ready to experiment with food at my pace," he explains. "My mind is completely open as far as any type of food is concerned. There are no taboos. I can eat burfi with tomato ketchup and cook chicken with chocolate sauce. But everyone cannot. So you have to take them there a step at a time.

"Take my special gulab jamuns, for instance," he continues. "I began innovating by only stuffing them with gulkhand first. As people grew to like it, I changed the plain sugar syrup for an orange flavoured one. When that too grew on popular taste, I flamb‚d the gulab jamuns in cointreau (orange flavoured liqueur). Now, if I had jumped to the last step right at the beginning, people might have been shocked and rejected it outright."

He learnt early that it is important to make the differences regionwise too. To make butter chicken with a little more spice for the Punjabi, with a dash more sugar, honey and cream for the Mumbaiite, with a gravy cooked with Sankeshwari chillies for the Kolhapuri, with coconut oil and perhaps even curry leaves for the Goan!

Kapoor may tread softly on tastebuds, but when it comes to methods of cooking, he doesn't mind shocking a few sensibilities out of their myths and misconceptions. "In the case of non-vegetarian food, I find that people still follow the cooking styles of a hundred years ago, when the quality of meat was suspect and refrigerators hadn't been invented," he says. "Every kind of meat is still unnecessarily stewed for prolonged lengths of time, something which was done earlier because meat was never cured. Actually chicken takes only six or seven minutes to cook. And fish, barely three or four minutes. Longer cooking simply spoils the texture and flavour of the meat. "Then there are the spices. The misconception runs that non-vegetarian food has to be very spicy. This idea too dates back to old times when meat was almost 'pickled' with spices in order to make it last longer than a day after cooking. Now, with refrigerators, we should be free of the habit."

It is for this kind of better understanding of Indian food that Kapoor has now undertaken his next assignment. An encyclopaedia on Indian food - in the form of a series of books. His dream is to make Indian the most popular food worldwide, and the most respected food in India, when it comes to eating out.

So move over Chinese, Cantonese, Thai and Italian!

One of Sanjeev Kapoor's classic fusion recipes:

Baby Corn and Kale Angoor

Baby corn - 12-16

Seedless black grapes - 100 gm

Apple peeled and chopped finely - 2 nos.

Yoghurt - 1/2 cup

Ginger paste - 1 tblspn

Garlic paste - 1 tblspn

Green chillies chopped - 1 tspn

Mawa grated (optional) - 1/2 cup

Fresh cream - 2 tblspn

Turmeric powder - 2 tspn

Dhania powder - 1 tblspn

Jeera powder - 1 tspn

Kashmiri red chilli powder - 1 tblspn

Salt - to taste

Oil - 1 tblspn

Boiled onion paste - 1/2 cup

Tomato puree - 1/2 cup

Garam masala powder - 1 tspn

METHOD

Cut baby corn into small pieces. If using fresh baby corn, boil them until soft.

Heat oil in a pan, add ginger paste and chopped green chillies, cook on medium heat briefly. Add boiled onion paste. Cook on high heat stirring continuously until oil starts separating. Add grated mawa, cook till mawa is mixed with the onion past thoroughly.

Add tomato puree, beaten yoghurt, Kashmiri chilli powder, dhania powder, jeera powder and turmeric powder, continue stirring while cooking the masala.

Add finely chopped apples and half a cup of water. Cook covered on medium heat, stirring occasionally till apples are mashed thoroughly.

Add baby corn and seedless grapes, mix well and add salt.

Stir in fresh cream, mix well. Mix in garam masala powder and serve garnished with black grapes.

Vivek Srivastava

604 329 7798

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Fusion Indian curries

Among the many misconceptions about India doing the rounds in the world, is one that hits us straight in the stomach. The misconception that the Indian curry is a single dish. A single, downmarket wet dish that helps to put down a plateful of rice.

Historically speaking, the curry is a little younger than the dhal as a part of our staple diet. Created in South India where lentils did not grow in great quantities like they did in Uttar Pradesh or Bihar or Punjab. Necessity thus became the mother of invention. And the cost of importing lentils from the north led to the creation of vegetables cooked in gravy, wet enough to perform the function of dhal when eaten with rice.

"Contrary to popular belief, the curry is much hotter and spicier now than it was in the Mughal era," says Camellia. "For they had no chillies then and used only pepper. Of course, it was much greasier for equal quantities of meat and fat (in the form of charbi) went into a curry. Today, we use barely ten per cent or less of that amount of fat."And yes, the curry has become fresher too, with increasing availability of fresh herbs and spices all over the country. For instance, Kashmir, which could only get ginger powder earlier, now has access to fresh ginger. The same goes for tomatoes which were not around at all 200 years ago, but are used in many curries today. "What we have today is a redder, herbier, spicier form of the original curry," she concludes.

Curries of all regions have been intermingling within India for centuries, yet it remains a cuisine traditional enough to keep western ingredients consistently at bay. "That there has been a lot of fusion within the country is apparent from the fact that the Kashmiri chilli is actually grown in Karnataka," says Camellia with a laugh. "The use of coconut has also spread from the coastal areas to the interiors. Just as dahi and fresh cream have permeated to coastal states. But there is no scope for fusion with western food here, for western ingredients just do not gel with the curry."




Camellia's book Fifty Great Curries Of India, printed in five languages (Swedish, Dutch, Norwegian, German and, of course, English) takes the Indian curry to the world in fifty great forms. And just as she explodes myths about the curry in the book, she also explodes a few myths of world taste by it. "It may sound difficult to believe, but the English eat far hotter food than we Indians can ever imagine eating!" she reveals. "In fact, some of the hottest new curries have been created for English taste by cooks in U.K.! For example the Phal. A Mutton Phal or a Chicken Phal is so hot that you and I can't eat it. But the British enjoy it."
No doubt, it's for the same reason that the Madras Curry is made hotter in London than in Madras. And the Goan Vindaloo is such a favourite in U.K. "The vindaloo hasn't travelled in India so much because other parts of India find it too hot for taste," she says. "But it has gone to the U.K. all right."
That Germans too like the hot curry is obvious from the fact that Camellia's book has gone into many prints in German. "It's only the Japanese who like their curry bland - and thickened with flour," she continues. "Indonesians, Thais, Malayans cook similar to us. Except that they don't fry their spices as much as we in India do. Americans too, have a palate that more or less matches ours."


Vivek Srivastava
604 329 7798
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Incredible Indian Cuisine- Robson All India Bar & Restaurant

The author is a food writer and columnist based in Mumbai.

Since time immemorial, royalty has been the patron of art, culture and cuisine. Royal kitchens have nurtured the talents of great chefs. Creativity was not just encouraged but demanded. It was a never-ending competition to create the ultimate dish for the jaded palate. Chefs in royal kitchens were a pampered lot and innovation and creativity were handsomely rewarded. The stately kitchens of India abound with legends of exotic foods including a dish that had live birds flying out of it when uncovered. Any wonder then that these kitchens spawned a range of dishes that are today so closely identified with their place of origin. To go into a description of the variety of foods associated with these kitchens would require more space than one article. So, for now, let us just look at the variety of kebabs that emerged from these kitchens.

Perhaps the most famous cuisine was that of the nawabs of Avadh. The very word conjures up images of affluence and opulence. Images of a time of gracious living where the culinary arts were at their most evolved. The highest recommendation a chef could have was that he belonged to Avadh or Lucknow, as it is now known. This was the birthplace of some of the finest food in the land. The nawabs of Avadh were an indulgent lot and had always craved the best foods even when old and toothless. This led to the innovation of one of the most celebrated kebabs of the day, the Shahi Gilawat ka Kebab, reputed to be so tender that even a toothless person could eat it without difficulty. It is also said to contain over a hundred aromatic and digestive spices that were supposed to ensure one's continued health and well being.
We usually associate kebabs with the advent of the Moghuls into India. This is not strictly true. Although the word kabab is derived from the Persian (aab means water and kum means less - it is a dish cooked with less water), the kebab in many forms was already a well-established tradition in India.
The Rajputs, for example, made suley or smoked kebabs long before the Muslim invasion. Hunting being a popular sport of theMaharajas, game meat was a favourite. This meat was often cooked over an open fire in the forest. Meat that was not consumed immediately was pickled and preserved for another day. The origin of the kebab was probably just a hunk of freshly killed meat smoked or cooked over a simple wooden fire with a little salt and maybe some chilli powder added to it. The subtle addition of flavours, textures and tastes was an art form that evolved over a period of time. Most of the Maharajas were adept at cooking and evolved elaborate recipes using the finest ingredients. The late Maharaja of Sailana was a legendary cook and has even published a book of his recipes. Not all kebabs are made of meat. From the state of Kishengarh in Rajasthan comes the dahi ka kebab, made with yoghurt and chickpea flour flavoured with saffron.
Another state in Rajasthan known for its kebabs was the state of Palanpur. The Nawabs of Palanpur were of Afghan descent who came to India in the twelfth century. Surrounded on all sides by Hindu Rajputs, they were a microscopic but important Muslim state in that area. The food was pure Mughal and their pulaos and kebabs were renowned. It is said that the shammi kebab was perfected in Palanpur.
The Moghuls brought with them their culture and their cuisine. Ingredients hitherto not generally used formed a fusion with the local foods. They were the first to use dried fruit, fragrances such as rose and kewda and nuts. These ingredients were brought from Turkey, Persia and Afghanistan and soon adapted to the local cuisine. As the various conquests continued and alliances formed, whether due to marriage or war, these influences slowly found their way around the country. Here they mingled with the local ingredients and formed a kind of fusion cuisine particular to that part of the country.
One of the best examples of this is the cuisine of the Nizams of Hyderabad. Here the Moghul love for meat was blended with the fiery spices of Andhra Pradesh to create what is truly one of the greatest of dishes of India. The Hyderabadi likes his meat in large chunks and heavily spiced, unlike the delicate kebabs of Lucknow (Avadh), where the meat is ground so fine that a child can eat it. Also the subtle fragrances and flavours used in Avadhi cuisine are not to be found here. Meats are spiced with fiery chillies and tempering this fire is the sourness of raw mangoes, tamarind, lemon and yoghurt. Hyderabadi Patthar Gosht, a tongue searingkebab so named because it is cooked on a heated stone, can today be found in the galis around the Charminar. It is said that the heated stone releases minerals that mix with the spices on the meat and give the kebab its special flavour. Another kebab is made of minced meat baked and then presented covered in silver varq to resemble a sweetmeat! Still another kebab is cooked and then smoked with a live coal to give it an unusual smoky flavour.
Moving back to the North, we have the princely states of Kashmir and Patiala, both of which have contributed greatly to the popularity of the kebab. The robust cuisine of the Punjab has spawned a tandoori revolution that is still going strong all over the world. Kashmiri Muslim cuisine on the other hand though almost entirely based on lamb is characterised by its use of delicate flavours such as saffron, cardamom and yoghurt. Kashmiri tabbak maas, a kebab made of the tender ribs of lamb is a gourmet delight. Should you ever have the good fortune to be invited to a Kashmiri wazwaan or banquet make sure you fast the previous day to do justice to this heavenly food.
Given below are two kebab recipe, adapted from Shalini Devi Holkar's book, Cooking Of The Maharajas. These unusual recipes are ideal to start off your kebab cooking sessions. Bon appetit!
SHIKAMPURI KEBAB
Mutton pieces (from the leg) 1/2 kg
Chana dal (split gram)1/3 cup
Ginger-garlic paste 1 tablespoon
Chilli powder 2 teaspoons or to taste
Green chillies, whole 3-4 or to taste
Salt to taste
Black cardamom 4
Bay leaves 4
Cinnamon sticks 4
Cloves 6
Yoghurt 1/2 cup
Garam masala powder 1-1/2 teaspoons
Green chillies, finely chopped 2-3
Fresh coriander leaves, finely chopped 1/3 cup
Fresh mint leaves, finely chopped 2 tablespoons
Lime juice 3 or 4 tablespoons
Fresh cream or hung yoghurt 1/2 kg
Eggs, lightly beaten 2
Oil or ghee to fry
Place cream or hung yoghurt in the refrigerator overnight or until firm. Put the meat along with the spices into a pot. Cover with water and boil until the meat is tender and all the water has evaporated. Remove from the pot and discard the chillies and whole spices. Grind the meat to a fine paste without adding water. Add the yoghurt, garam masala powder, coriander leaves, mint leaves and lime juice to the ground meat and mix well. Divide the meat mixture into equal parts (approximately 20 or 22). Take a portion of the paste and roll it into a ball between your palms. Flatten slightly and make an indentation in the centre of the meat, like a small cup. Fill this indentation with a small spoonful of the cream or yoghurt and fold the ground paste over to seal. Make all thekebabs in this way and dip in beaten egg, shaking off any excess, and fry in hot oil or ghee until golden brown.
DAHI KA KEBAB
Fresh, thick yoghurt 4 cups
Saffron threads, a pinch
Boiling milk or water 2 tblsp
Gram flour (besan) 2/3 cup
Powdered cloves 15 cloves
Powdered black pepper 1/2 teaspoon
Powdered cinnamon 1 teaspoon
Chilli powder 1 teaspoon
Salt to taste
Ghee to fry
For sauce:
Onions, thinly sliced 2
Garlic, finely pasted 5-6 cloves
Garam masala powder 1 teaspoon
Red chilli powder to taste
Salt to taste
Milk or buttermilk 1/4 cup or as required
Place the yoghurt in a muslin cloth and hang to drain for at least four hours. There must be approximately two cups of yoghurt thick enough to stand a spoon in. Presoak the saffron in two tablespoons of boiling milk or water. Add the saffron water, gram flour, salt, cloves, pepper, cinnamon and one teaspoon chilli powder to the yoghurt and mix well. Divide into equal parts to form small balls, flatten slightly to form kebabs. Heat ghee and shallow fry the kebabs, a few at a time, until a pale gold in colour. Remove from the pan and set aside.
In the same ghee, fry the onions until golden brown. Remove and grind to a fine paste and set aside. Add the garlic, chilli powder,garam masala, salt and ground onions to the ghee and cook on a slow flame adding the milk or buttermilk, a tablespoon at a time, to prevent them from burning. Cook until the flavours are blended and you have a thick sauce. Pour the sauce over thekebabs and serve hot.


Vivek Srivastava
orders.robsonsallindia.com
604 329 7798














































































































































































 
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The Tasty 'Dhaniwal Korma' of ROBSON ALL INDIA

Recipe

1kg meat (preferably pelvic region and tail)
1 handi-spoonful of ghee
1/2 kg curd
5 chopped onions ( whole )
2 tsp sonth
2 tsp sonf
3 tsp dhaniya powder
1 tsp peppercorns
salt to taste
a bunch of hara dhania leaves (finely chopped )

Heat the ghee in a vessel, add the curd and the chopped onions. Stir them together till they acquire a uniform consistency.Add the meat and the remaining ingredients.,pour three cups of water and boil till the meat becomes tender. Allow it to simmer. Remove from heat. garlish with hara dhaniya leaves

Delicious 'seekh kabab' of Robson All India

RECIPE

1kg mince
100 gm roasted gram
2 medium onions sliced
2 inch piece ginger
6 cloves garlic
1 tsp zeera2 inch square piece raw pappaya
salt and lal mirch powder to taste
2 tsp dhanla powder
100 gm ghee

Grind the roasted gram finely and fry the onions till brown, grind separately the ginger, garlic zeera, fried onions and raw papaya.Add these to the meat, together with the salt, dhal mirch and dhaniya and mix well. Next, take iron rods, a quarter of an inch in diameter, and cover the middle portion with a handful of prepared meat holding the rod vertically. Press the meat with the palmof your hand, till it is about seven inches long and one inch thick. Dip your hand in water  occasionally so that doesnt stick to the hand. Place the rods on supports, three or four inches above a charcoal fire, and rotate gradually so that seekh is roasted all round. Do not keep the rod too close to fire. Soak a piece of cloth in ghee and squeeze it  over the kababs two or three times while roasting. when they are quite brown, gently slide the kababs off the road on to a serving dish. Garnish with finely sliced onion rings, and serve immediately.

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